Travel | Scotland, Part 2

Chapter Four: Loch Ness & Inverness

Loch Ness is the stuff of legends, but Inverness is the cultural capital of the Scottish Highlands—one we were eager to explore! Beneath a misty wash of grey clouds with fragments of blue peeking through, we walked the line of several centuries, passing Victorian markets and 18th century cathedrals as well as modern shops and brands we love. 

Our first stop was to Rebel Row to visit The Prickly Thistle, an incredible shop owned and run by a woman who’s made it her mission to create gorgeous pieces inspired by her Scottish heritage, crafted with zero waste in the hands of local artisans. London picked up a gorgeous, fawn-brown skirt while I selected trousers, and I fully intend to stop by once more to pick up a thoroughly modern kilt! 

Next, we dropped by Leakey’s Bookshop: an intriguing blend of new and vintage titles, as well as several rare antiques, that’s just celebrated forty-five years in the highlands. Naturally, we got a little lost among the shelves before escaping the city to hunt down a monster—only to be greeted by a fine gentleman instead. 

Bagpipes are one of those divisive instruments that people claim to love or hate, but I say you can’t make a firm opinion on the matter until you’ve had a Scotsman dressed in full regalia serenade you. The sound is explosive and jarring, but in a way that wakes the whole world up. It makes sense once you’ve seen the Scottish highlands that this would be the music they’d create. 

The bagpiper explained how they work, then ushered us onto a boat where we ate sliced corned beef and local cheeses, and London briefly thought she’d spotted Nessie herself!

Take a look at the picture and decide for yourself if it was real.

Chapter Four: Edinburgh, part 1

Inverness may be the cultural capital of the highlands, but Edinburgh is where Scotland connects with the rest of the world. Its dark, winding streets and plentiful bookshops make it a hub of the Dark Academia style movement, attracting creative types from around the world.⁠⁠

I was excited to explore, and we did start our day by visiting the famous castle! But sometimes, traveling isn't about the itinerary. On long trips especially, it's important to listen to what your soul needs—and on this day, my soul needed rest. ⁠⁠

I spent the afternoon recharging while London and Taras took a ghost tour, and while part of me felt bad about taking a rest, sometimes that's all anyone needs. ⁠

Don't be afraid to take a break. The world will wait for you. ⁠

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Chapter Five: Edinburgh, part 2

Our day began in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery—a stunning space that originated with one eccentric aristocrat (the 11th Earl of Bucan) and his penchant for collecting portraits of famous Scotsmen and women. 

Officially opened on Edinburgh’s Queen Street to the public in 1889 thanks to the generosity of a local newspaper, the building was seen as just as much a work of art as the paintings it would house. Sir Robert Rowand Anderson, one of the most prominent Scottish architects of their time, plotted a modern purpose-designed art gallery meant to rival the most advanced institutions across Europe and America both. And it shows in every detail. 

I remember the moment I came across the bust in this opening photo, and the specific slants of light streaming in through the dozens of tiny glass window panels, casting the sculptor’s work into such strong relief it seemed as though he might breathe. Or the oil painting of that young woman, colors cast in perfect, rich strokes thanks to the blue-green wall set behind. A modern painter, Ken Currie, stood out as my particular favorite.

Eventually, we peeled ourselves away from the museum to visit @islanderukltd — a charming shop with the most gorgeous entryway that offers heritage fashion with a modern twist. Inside, London was able to pick out her own colors, tweed, straps, and rivets, designing her own bag which they then assembled right in front of our eyes! 

It was such a fun experience—and one I’d recommend if you also plan to coax your wonderful, young teenager through every museum Scotland has to offer.

Chapter Six: Jupiter Artland

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Imagine what you might do if you suddenly inherited a grand estate, complete with acres of lush, green grounds and crumbling stone walls. What might you do if you came across one that’s empty, longing to be filled?

This is a story repeated dozens of times over across Europe, with many old homes transformed into fantastical wedding venues or living museums—but Jupiter Artland must be my favorite of all because when the Wilsons bought Bonnington House in the 1990s, it was determined that the land existed for art.

And after nearly three decades of work, I think it’s safe to say their original vision remains true. 

As of 2024, 36 artist commissions have found permanent residence along the Jacobean estate, scattered across 100 acres of woodland and fields. Scattered throughout are an additional 35 temporary exhibits that cycle throughout the seasons. But rather than being overly-structured or clear, Jupiter Artland is a place meant for wandering, made of immaculate gardens with hidden surprises around every corner. 

Here are some of my favorites! 

1. “Gateway” by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. Every tile is hand-made, coordinated in an explosion of color leading to a central pool just in front of the house!
2. The “Weeping Girls” by Laura Ford, a series of 5 statues that aren’t marked on the estate map but rather meant to be stumbled upon as you explore. 
3. “Suck” by Anish Kapoor, a renowned sculptor. It resembles a wishing well locked in a cage!
4. “Cells of Life” by Charles Jencks: a beautiful series of earthen mounds tucked right at the entrance.

It took a Herculean effort to leave this place, but you can bet I’ll return if ever I make it back across the pond to this incredible country again.

Chapter Seven: The Train

Welcome to the grand finale of our trip: a two-day luxury train ride through the Highlands of Scotland, cutting between sprawling old forests and towering, cragged mountains. Proud herds of deer stood watch in places while others were bare of anything but the magic-steeped land itself. 

As we spent hours reading or journaling about our trip, trying to collect inspiration and memories before they could slip away, the staff cared for us to an exceptional degree, anticipating our needs before we could even voice them ourselves. We ate like royalty, and slept in outstanding stations so our bodies could regulate to the constant movement throughout the day. 

We toured a distillery at one point. Fed the deer at another. But beyond anything, we took the opportunity to rest after days of nonstop travel and delights. 

Thank you for following along with our journey! If you have questions, or tips for the next time, please comment them below.

Until our next travels, 

Paula