Sweetheart | A History of Heart Jewelry

“You’re my heart, you’re my soul 

I keep it shining wherever I go…”

 

The Historic Heart 

A widely speculated hypothesis of the actual heart shape connects the heart shape to the now-extinct Silphium plant. This valuable herb from ancient Cyrene—an ancient Greek colony and Roman city near present-day Shahhat in northeastern Libya in North Africa—was used as a seasoning, medicine, and most notably, as a contraceptive. Its seed pod was heart-shaped and appeared on Cyrenaic coins. Silphium's seed pod bore a striking resemblance to the modern Valentine's heart, leading many to speculate that the herb's associations with love and relationships may have been what first helped popularize the symbol. 

Further back- the heart symbol can be traced to before the last Ice Age somewhere between 10,000 and 8,000 B.C.E, when Cro-Magnon hunters in Europe used the symbol in pictograms. 

In the years following, Egyptians placed further value upon this sacred body part, believing the heart, or the ieb, to be the center of life and morality. This ancient civilisation believed that after death, your heart is taken to the Hall of Maat, the goddess of justice, to be weighed against the Feather of Maat. If your heart was lighter than the Feather, you would join Osiris in the afterlife. If you failed the test on the scales, then the beast Ammit would devour your heart, and your soul would vanish from existence. 

During the golden age of scientific exploration from 400-200 B.C.E., the Ancient Greeks believed the heart to be the center of the soul and the source of heat within the body, and the philosophers Hippocrates and Aristotle observed the connection between the heart and lungs. The Romans discovered that alongside the brain, the heart was the single most vital organ in sustaining life, and took the symbolism further, with both women and men wearing wedding rings on the fourth finger due to belief that it was directly connected to the heart. Around the same time on the opposite side of the world, the Teotihuacan culture in ancient Mexico believed that every human being contained several different spiritual forces, of which many could leave the body at certain times. However, the teyolia, the spiritual force associated with the heart, had to remain within the body at all times, or the person would die.

The exact date as to when and how the heart first came to be renowned as a symbol of love is a matter more of conjecture than of epigraphic evidence. However, the earliest recorded evidence of its use comes from the 13th Century French composition—‘Roman de la Poire’ meaning

‘Romance of the Pear’ by Thibaut. Dated to between about 1230 and 1285, this work of art encouraged use of the heart image, and significantly popularized its use in Christian theology. The Sacred Heart, which is usually seen emitting ethereal light and suffering from wounds, is seen as a symbol for Jesus Christ and his love. Devotion to the Sacred Heart reached a high point in the Middle Ages, where it was seen in countless works of art and mentioned constantly in prayers and doctrine.

To this day, we are still finding historical use of this symbol much like this recently discovered Tudor necklace found by a metal detector hobbyist in a field in the UK.

Beyond Symbols

Today the heart is widely accepted as the definitive symbol of love. Whether the receiver be a family member, a close friend, or a romantic partner, a heart-shaped jewel is the ultimate way to express one’s feelings on the day of love, Valentine’s Day, or the anticipated day before—Galentine’s Day. Nothing says ladies supporting ladies like picking out matching elegant, heart-shaped pendants with your girls.

The versatility of the heart symbol has led to its incorporation into virtually every type of jewelry imaginable. From delicate, subtle pieces to bold statement jewelry, heart-shaped designs cater to a wide range of personal styles and preferences.

Why Is Heart Jewelry Sought After?

The heart shape is recognized worldwide as a symbol of love and affection. It transcends language barriers and cultural differences. Hearts represent love and significant relationships, making it an eternal memory token, meaningful gift, and personal adornment. Heart jewelry can be worn for a variety of occasions, from everyday wear to special events due to their customizability—heart jewelry is easy to personalize with engravings, birthstones, and unique designs, making each piece tailored to the individual. 

The heart shape adapts well to changing fashion trends, and continues to evoke a timeless appeal. The lasting appeal of heart jewelry showcases how this simple shape can carry so much meaning. As long as people wish to express love and connection, heart jewelry will remain a timeless symbol that resonates with jewelry lovers around the world.

Iconic Hearts

Timeless symbols of affection and loyalty, hearts have taken a front-row seat in high modern culture. For our Modern Muses—do you remember some of the most iconic pieces of jewelry from our favorite films? The Isadora Necklace worn by Kate Hudson in How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days, the locket worn by Barbie, Elle Woods' necklace in the opening scene of Legally Blonde.

With such a long history, heart jewelry gifts span generations. One of the earliest records of a heart shaped gem was found around December of 1563, when Elizabeth I of England sent Mary, the Queen of Scots, a diamond ring, which the queen “marvellously esteemed.” Mary had

recently celebrated her twenty-first birthday and, in the wake of her first husband’s death, was actively contemplating remarriage. Mary’s marriage was to have far-reaching international implications—one Elizabeth wished to assert authority over. 

Following her birthday festivities, Mary received the English ambassador, Thomas Randolph, in bed. She proudly displayed the ring given to her by Elizabeth on her finger, worn beside another given to her by her late husband, Francis II. Mary referred to the treasures as the “two jewels I have that must die with me, and willingly shall never out of my sight.” Later that same evening, she was overheard toasting to Elizabeth’s health. Though the story between these two queens ends with tragedy, this iconic gift exchange set the spark for love-treasures.

Perhaps the most famous wearer of heart jewelry, Queen Victoria of England, is credited with popularizing the heart motif with her conspicuous bracelet in which the hearts represented each of her nine children. Fashion trends worldwide quickly followed after the Queen and soon charm jewelry and hearts became extremely popular. 

The Victorian era inspired people worldwide to adorn themselves in heart jewelry, with gate bracelets serving as one of the most notable styles of this time. The heart motif can be found in many pieces of jewelry from this era, and its style has continued through to the present day.

Fast forward to 1997 when Kate Winslet wore the ‘Heart of Ocean’ necklace in the Hollywood blockbuster we so adore, Titanic. The diamond in the heart-shaped necklace also goes by the name Le Cœur de la Mer. It’s not a real diamond, but Twentieth Century Fox treasures it! The real blue diamond which was an inspiration behind the making of the iconic heart-shaped necklace is the famous ‘Hope Diamond’. This 45.52 carat blue diamond was once a part of the French King Louis XIV’s royal collection.

The Heart Endures

Heart-shaped jewelry is more than just an aesthetically pleasing design; it’s a powerful symbol that carries profound meaning for people across the globe.

Just as hearts have fluctuated in meaning and importance throughout history, the symbol isn’t reserved solely for romance. From family bonds to friendship, self-love, or compassion, whether it’s for your family, friends, or partner, one meaning always runs true when the heart comes to play—love. With endless chocolates, cakes, pendants, sunglasses, and hair clips to choose from, there’s no shortage of this universal symbol for love in the world today.

“There is a silk ladder unrolled across the ivy 
There is 
That leaning over the precipice  
Of the hopeless fusion of your presence and absence  
I have found the secret  
Of loving you 
Always for the first time" 

–André Breton